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Rusty's progress RUT ROH Dakota Dash is Next oh myyy lawwwwdddd LOL

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Post by zucchi Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:24 pm

76Chevelle2Tone wrote:How deeply can the conversion process with the rust layer go; or alternatively, what is the maximum thickness of the rust layer that is fully convertible through surface application?  
The reaction slows considerably as the phosphate layer builds. If the area being treated has deep pits, it will require reapplication (perhaps several) and more time to penetrate. Naval jelly is more suitable to treat areas like that because it is gelatinous and can be applied in a thick layer.
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Post by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:37 pm

Just talked with Eastwood again and They told me yes you do have to use water ONLY after the 48 Hour curing process Like dawn dish soap Hot water or a good wax grease remover.

If you do it before the Curing process is done you will have to it over, They did strongly suggest I wire brush it first then go to an180 at the absolute lowest grit and possibly even 220 to get rest of stuff that's loosened by wire brush completely gone.
Then wax grease remover again before applying the convertor but so far I have followed the process exactly like they would have suggested so that's good I guess

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Post by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:38 pm

Also suggested two Coats if at all possible esp on roof so if any pits soak it in the rest of surface rust has a chance to soak that second coat in

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Post by 76Chevelle2Tone Thu Jul 25, 2024 2:55 pm

Thanks all for the more complete info. Very useful for others too and perhaps these posts should be stickied somewhere.
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Post by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 8:18 pm

Updating: PATINA REMOVAL ITS EVEN MORE BLACKISH NOW ITS DRYONG UP MORE than in pictures 

Eastwoods recommendations worked perfect other that having to use 120 grit instead of 180 now just has to cure for 48 hours so Saturday will be ready for the rest of the treatment primer filler sand smooth then Sealer and that area will be ready for paint when get rest of SE done and ready for paint.
Now next agenda get old dash out and put new Black dash in and start the Dakota Digital wiring process, OH WHAT A NIGHTMARE WIRING ARRRRGGGG anyways get that in and hook transmission module up to dash and finish the wiring and Hopefully just hopefully Before we Leave Illinois I can leave a smokeshow at end of driveway LMAO TO TELL ILLINOIS TO KISS MY FAT WHITE BEJIND


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Post by bucket Fri Jul 26, 2024 10:10 am

Well dang, I had a nice detailed post all typed up, but it didn't post.

But in short, sand the metal well first, then apply the rust converter. Once cured, sand the surface again, exposing as much clean metal as possible. Then prime.

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Post by Limey SE Fri Jul 26, 2024 10:32 am

bucket wrote:Well dang, I had a nice detailed post all typed up, but it didn't post.

But in short, sand the metal well first, then apply the rust converter. Once cured, sand the surface again, exposing as much clean metal as possible. Then prime.

Yeah understandable..... wire brushed it, tried the recommended 180 soon found out NOPE went to 120 and worked great sanded before second coat and then wax grease remover and Sprayed two additional coats ( between second and third coat I sanded with 220 though) and you can see end result .... NOW the wait is on for 48 hours I can prime / seal it tomorrow .... Dash is coming out for the replacement today

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Post by Limey SE Fri Jul 26, 2024 10:51 am

Sorry for cufusion only Have three good coats on there and Two were done with sanding between coats

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Post by bucket Fri Jul 26, 2024 10:51 pm

I'd recommend sanding that last coat too, exposing as much good clean metal as you can. The converter will stay where the minor pits are all over the place. The clean metal will be a better surface for the primer to adhere to, compared to the coating of rust converter.

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Post by Limey SE Fri Jul 26, 2024 11:24 pm

bucket wrote:I'd recommend sanding that last coat too, exposing as much good clean metal as you can. The converter will stay where the minor pits are all over the place. The clean metal will be a better surface for the primer to adhere to, compared to the coating of rust converter.


Yup that's the plan Afte we I rinse it tomorrow has to cure for 48 hours then gonna let the Sun air dry the booger out then prime it has to sit for 12 hours after that then Sunday I making sure it's smooth before sealing it up

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Post by Limey SE Mon Aug 05, 2024 11:47 am

I cried a little bit today, I took roof stripes off to start prepping for priming sealing after I rust converted it, took more time to get the glue residue off than the stripes did


Well 2 coats primer later looks more like a car instead of rust bucket still a rust bucket but starting to come together Stripes on roof are now a Memory 
FOR NOW I HAVE SOMETHING LINED UP those who know, Know. I have sealer to put once I work the dents and pits on trunk lid hopefully rain holds off tomorrow so can sand smooth after fixing dents and get it sealed up


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Post by Limey SE Mon Aug 05, 2024 12:05 pm

It was Dusk when I finally got the roof and I ran out of Good light to spray, I see I missed a little in the center of the roof on second coat of primer good enough to sand and see where the dents are to fix though I only went down far enuf for the primer to where I rust converted the pass side Quarter still needs R/R so didn't do all the way down Drive side I wanted to get what I needed done, I have one hole needing repair right by Opera window on drivers side yet So didn't do there either Plus I may need that for a stripe template yet I AM NOT SURE

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Post by Limey SE Sat Aug 31, 2024 11:08 pm

New Windshield is FINALLY in took long enough but starting to look like a Car again Finally yayyyyyy
 
Maybe Tomorrow Sunday September 1st will try and tie up hood if we get done in enough time for daughters shocks for her truck... all that's left is to panel bond it on, remove screws and body work it onto hood


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Post by Limey SE Mon Sep 02, 2024 10:03 pm

Well Dash is swapped and bolted in Just need to pull interior and carpet out so I can remove the mouse house headliner and install the used one I have what a mess that was Every screw I removed it just started to crumble in my hands jeez Louise anyways.... It's out now and Just need to do the headliner then Wire the Dakota Dash then Finally onto the 454 I HATE WIRING WHO WANTS TO VOLUNTEER?  LOL

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Post by Limey SE Tue Sep 03, 2024 9:08 pm

Console now Black to help tie seats to dash more Getting closer and closer tomorrow is headliner 

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Post by Limey SE Sun Sep 08, 2024 8:17 pm

Well 1st step is done for the Dakota Dash wiring gonna try and do it myself with a friend's guidance thru messaging so Far he is a lifesaver Ty Steve C. for all the guidance so far

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Post by 76Chevelle2Tone Mon Sep 09, 2024 7:04 pm

Limey SE wrote:Well 1st step is done for the Dakota Dash wiring

Is this the Dakota "Dash" you are referring to (really the instrument cluster)? Is the wiring harness included? It didn't say at the site?

VHX-73C-MAL: 1973- 77 Chevy Malibu/ El Camino/ GMC Sprint with Square gauges
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Post by Limey SE Mon Sep 09, 2024 7:27 pm

Yes sir it's the Dakota Dash sweep Cluster a Secret Santa lifted it to me last year the dash is in Car already just need to button it up ONLY thing stopping g me from from firing the 454 finally 

Wiring Schematics were the drawback everything was in black and white no color reference 

A friend in Tennessee stepped up and shared his 197u Corlor Schematics he had and now it's game on again 
Taking a break from clearing the Mouse House Headliner that was kinda red ruff even wearing 3m masks it's still kinda got thru due to my beard being  so thick so maybe this weekend or sooner 

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Post by 76 Malibu Mon Sep 09, 2024 7:43 pm

Those Dakota gauges look really good. I am leaning towards going that route with my car down the road.
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Post by 76Chevelle2Tone Mon Sep 09, 2024 8:23 pm

Limey SE wrote:Yes sir it's the Dakota Dash sweep Cluster a Secret Santa lifted it to me last year the dash is in Car already just need to button it up ONLY thing stopping g me from from firing the 454 finally 

Wiring Schematics were the drawback everything was in black and white no color reference 


How do they sell a a schematic that way? You mean there wasn't any label on each depicted wire specifying the color. Or do they say which connector each wire goes to instead?

I had a different problem with the (entire) dash harness that I ordered from Lectric Ltd. They construct them on the original blueprints but the assemblers don't necessarily follow them exactly or random changes were made after the initial blueprint was issued. I found some wires that were different color than than my original installed harness. Fortunately I have a friend who is a retired electrical engineer and we had to get on the phone for about an hour with Lectric Ltd to sort it out.
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Post by Limey SE Mon Sep 09, 2024 8:29 pm

No it was a Service manual Book diagram I had first then a friend supplied the full Monty Color Version he had purchased 



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